It’s a far cry from those lunchroom hairnet ladies of my youth. And the food’s a whole lot better. It’s Zéfiro, a new lunchtime spot inside the culinary school at Universidad del Claustro de Sor Juana. The UCSJ is a non-mainstream school (similar to New York's New School for Social Research) offering interesting courses in a plethora of subjects including gastronomy, and Zéfiro is part of the training—all the workers here are students. The name means zephyr, a gentle breeze—and indeed, this new restaurant is a breath of fresh air in the Centro Historico.
There seems so be a trend in new, upscale Mexican restaurants: regional cuisine featuring unpretentious but aesthetically pleasing presentation. Young chefs are now choosing less common dishes from the Mexican lexicon, and that’s a good thing. Sophisticated diners in search of the authentic are looking beyond the same old plato Tampiqueño or enchiladas de mole. Nor are any foams or Asian ingredients in sight. Phew… The recently opened Casa México (see my previous review) is an outstanding example of this ‘alta-baja cocina’ trend, which continues here.
The setting is a large open room facing the interior courtyard of a renovated neo-classical building. Elegant and airy, the wood floors and exposed stone walls provide a warm but rustic elegance. The young staff is eager and attentive. The carta has been honed down to a few offerings in each category: a couple of soups, a simple arrachera or filete de pescado or a standard caldo de pollo or fideo seco. The inventive prix fixe menus featuring regional cuisine, and which change weekly, are what I recommend.
On a recent visit we were served a complementary naranjada and free (!) water – no added costs and no plastic bottles to toss. I chose the $180 peso menú del día, which includes three courses plus wine, dessert and coffee – a great deal as there are no sneaky extras to pad the bill. I started with vuelve a la vida (mixed seafood cocktail), which was one of the best I’ve had. The young chef gets out of the way and lets the ingredients do the work – tender octopus and shrimp are complimented by a light tomato and lime dressing. The second course, sopa de lima (a tradition of the Yucatan) was fragrant and hearty but could have used an extra tweak of limón. My main dish, something called ‘pacholas’ turned out to be very thin ground meat patties flavored with fragrant spices. The flavor was reminiscent of Middle Eastern kefta. They were formed into quirky triangles and accompanied by the best black beans I’ve had since Cuba. The dessert, called nido de abeja (bee’s nest), was a beautifully balanced torte of crumbly crust, chocolate mousse and light pastry cream served with a little dollop of good vanilla ice cream - an exercise in harmony.
The filete de pescado al mojo de ajo, a comida classic we sampled from the regular menu, however, was only B+ although the fish itself was fresh and mercifully not overcooked. Better was an ensalada de nopales nicely dressed with a vinaigrette which would have made Julia Child proud.
I could nit-pick all day: too little seasoning here, an under-garnished plate there. But, considering the constantly changing menu and reasonable prices, I will refrain. I give these noble students an ‘A’ for effort, ‘A-minus‘ for food, and my best wishes for a smooth road to diploma-dom.
Zéfiro is an excellent choice for those who want a civilized, tranquil and reasonably priced Mexican lunch in the centro.
Note: Every Tuesday, a ‘Menu del Bicentenario’ is offered, consisting of regional dishes from all over the republic – this month San Luís Potosí is featured.
Zéfiro Restaurante Escuela
San Jerónimo 24 (between Bolívar & Isabel la Católica, metro Isabel la Católica)
Tel. 5709 7983
open Monday through Friday 1-5PM
Notes to my readers:
* I have inaugurated a new blog as a forum for my non-Mexican writings.
See GOOD FOOD PLANET
*Author Nicholas Gilman and Mexico City are flatteringly mentioned in the Washington Post: click here to view
Mexico’s capital has always been a city for nightlife, ever since its ‘golden age’ of the ‘40’s and ‘50’s. Bars, cabarets, restaurants and clubs of every description buzz until the wee small hours. Bohemian ambiance, long gone in New York or Paris pervades here. From the chic Condesa D.F. hotel’s open air bar, which has hosted the likes of that frivolous hotel-chain heiress to the old-fashioned but arty downtown Salón Corona, where yuppies and artists alike down draught beer and tacos, there is something for everyone. On a given night one might catch a show of Astrid Hadad, the ‘Mexican Bette Midler’ at El Bataclan in La Bodega, an old mansion converted into a cabaret, or a lively young jazz group at the downtown club Zinco . Underground chilango sleuth David Lida and I were recently featured in a cover article in El Universal about cantinas and bars. Interviewed as to why we liked them, I replied "What enchants me about Mexico City is the way its past is present; this doesn’t happen in the U.S. where it seems all traces of it are erased; here it is alive and well and living in the centro".
It follows that most of my favorite places to hang out are the oldest ones, although I admit to being partial to a couple of newer hipster spots.
Bar Opera - Cinco de Mayo 10, Centro
Open Monday-Saturday 1pm-Midnight,Sunday 1pm-6pm
The famous Bar La Opera with its bullet hole from Pancho Villa’s gun is on everyone’s list but Belle Epoch has never been “beller” than here and I still stop by once in a while for a slug. My fondest memory is of my Godmother, downtown actress/diva Joyce Aaron, who, a few years ago, stood up and conducted the entire bar through two full choruses of ‘Solamente Una Vez’. Don’t eat here the food is lousy, just drink and wax nostalgic.
Cantina Tio Pepe - corner of Independencia and Dolores, Centro
In Mexico City many old places have been preserved simply because nobody ever thought to change them; they are authentically old and do not have a “Disney-fied” restored look. This old cantina, with its original Art Nouveau bar has been the scene of many political discussions over the years. If you’re lucky you’ll get a booth.
Salón Corona - Bolivar 24, Centro
Tel: 5512-5725, open daily 8 am-1am
This truly cool place has been serving an excellent and wide variety of tacos ince 1928. Beer is cold and on tap, unusual in Mexico: order it “de barríl”. A mixed crowd (in class and age) has re-discovered this, one of the few surviving cervecerias in the Centro, and it is always bustling.
La Guadalupana Higuera 14, near the central plaza, Coyoacán
Open Monday - Saturday 1pm-11:30pm
Everyone knows that Frida, Diego and Trotsky partied here. But unlike the equivalent Hemingway hangouts, La Guadalupana has not become an overpriced tourist trap; it retains its old-fashioned working class charm, bullfighting décor and experienced service. Botanas are offered with drinks and there is a serviceable menu of Mexican standards at lunchtime.
Covadonga - Puebla 121, Colonia Roma
Open Monday-Saturday 1pm –2am
This traditional club for Spanish expatriots has become a hangout for the artsy-fartsy, but the old-timers can still be found sitting around schmoozing and playing dominoes in the vast, flourescent-lit room. There is a good wine list, but don’t be tempted by the food, which is mediocre at best. Stick to classic tapas like bocadillos, tortilla española or chorizo a la sidra.
La Bodega - Popocatépetl 25, corner of Av. Amsterdam, Condesa, Tel: 5525-2473
This lively bar/restaurant/cabaret occupies a funky old Condesa mansion. Downstairs live music is featured (usually Cuban), and upstairs there is a small theatre where well-known cabaret performers entertain. This is the home base for Astrid Hadad, the “Mexican Bette Midler” – she has to be seen to be believed. The food is good. We like to share the plato de entremeses, a plethora of Mexican antojitos, or the fish tacos.
Bar Cibeles - Plaza Villa de Madrid (Cibeles) 17, Roma
Tel: 5208-2029, 1456
Open Tuesday-Saturday 7pm- 2am
Located in the Plaza Cibeles (which has been trying hard to gussy itself up with mixed success), this self-styled kitch/retro bar is a good place for a drink and a light snack such as pizza if you are in the mood for an L.A.-like experience and a little “ambiente cool.” A large space with comfortable tables and a long bar, it gets quite busy on weekends, so reservations are suggested.
Condesa DF - Veracruz 102 at Parque España, Condesa
Tel: 5241-2600, Open Sunday-Wednesday 7pm-Midnight, Thursday-Saturday 7pm-1:30am
Visiting frivolous like to stay at the Condesa DF, and since such people probably don’t sleep much, the noisy rooms must not bother them. For the rest of us, the rooftop terrace bar is a great spot for a drink and an hors d’oeuvre. Try to be there at sunset but do call to reserve a spot or you will be left in the lurch.
Cantina La Capital - Nuevo León 137, Condesa, Tel. 5553-0438
This is a new ‘cantina’, more of a casual restaurant really, its space open, modern and airy, its ambience mature, more sophisticated than the average Condechi hangout. The food is quite good – I recommend the tres ceviches.
The best jazz club in the city is in the basement of an Aztec-Deco office building and will remind aficionados of the Village Vanguard in New York. Good local groups headline; check their webpage for schedule.
Salón París - Torres Bodet 152 corner Salvador Diaz Mirón, (corner of the Alameda of Santa Maria la Ribera) Colonia Santa Maria La Ribera
This traditional and friendly cantina is supposedly the place where ranchera giant José Alfredo Jiménez got his start singing in public – although some say he was only a waiter here. It is a favorite with locals and still, at times, offers live traditional music.
Las Dualistas Aranda 30 (Ayuntamiento, near the Mercado San Juan) centro
This old pulquería, in business since the 1930’s, is one of the last in the centro (La Risa , Mesones 71, is the other). Although nothing of the original decor remains, a recently painted Aztec rock and roll mural gives the place a bit of pazzazz, as if the customers and juke-box weren’t enough. The curados of such flavors as honey, celery and tomato will convert even the most reluctant and the free botanas, make a 11 peso glass of pulque into the cheapest sit-down lunch in Mexico. Pulquerías usually close around 8 or 9.
El Oasis - República de Cuba 2, centro
This freindly working class gay men's spot is the only one of its kind. There is old fashioned couples dancing to ranchera music, karaoke on Wednesday nights, and a floor show on Saturday during which a gay mariachi sings and the pudgy waitors get up and strip!
Author Nicholas Gilman and Mexico City are flatteringly mentioned in the Washington Post: click here to view
PS Letter from Haiti:
From the email of a friend working in Haiti: "I can suggest you donate (to The Haiti Clinic) which serves the poorest of the poor in the worst section of Port au Prince via an existing building that by some incredible stroke of luck was not demolished in the earthquake. However, the prison gangs are now in control of ...that part of the city and the patients are afraid to come into the clinic. For this reason, Haiti Clinic is now trying to raise money to purchase and furnish a mobile clinic (i.e., on a truck) to travel to the people - especially the many regions that have yet to obtain any medical care whatsoever. I can vouch that the money will be put to the best possible use... NO skimming from donations, no administrative costs etc. 100% of the money is used for purchasing supplies.
Last week I wrote about some of 2009’s culinary highlights. Now it’s time to vent. It was a rough year for el Day Effay, what with the flu, the crisis and endless drug news (most of which has nothing to do with the capital). The restaurant racket is a tough one - I know, I've labored within - and one must be lenient at times. But some faux pas gastronomiques are inexcusable. They deserve to be brought to light. 'Oscar' type awards are due here. I hope my younger (i.e. under 49) readers forgive me for some of the more arcane references. But as Imelda said when she plunked down her Visa card for just one more pair of Manolo Blahniks “I just can’t help it”…and now, the envelope, please
Adios para Siempre plated gold watches go to: Le Cirque: c’est fini – tant pis. A.O.: Japanese fusion nicely done in an old house with jazz. The Colonia Roma public wasn’t ready for it. They shoulda put up the TVs. O'Mei: in the hotel Nikko put on a satisfying pan-Asian buffet...perhaps they shouldn'ta put out SO much.
The Imelda-Marcos-doesn’t-she-know-there’s-a-recession? cup should be handed to the St. Regis' Diana for their 950 peso brunch.
The Baby-with-the-bathwater medal goes to the government of el D.F. for sweeping up the vendors in the centro and with them some beloved streetfood institutions. They should go see how it’s done in Bangkok.
The Greta-Garbo-she-never-DID-make-her-comebackprize is earned by Martha Chapa, whose mysteriously closed Aguila y Sol is still discussed at finer soirees.
The To-Hell-in-a-handbasket statuette is deserved by El Mesón Andaluz for making their once fine arroz negro with hot dogs.
The Kathleen-Turner-blowsy-broad plaque goes to the historic LaFonda del Recuerdo for covering their nice old wood floors with plastic “pisos de lamina”.
The Paris-Hilton-dumb-as-she-looks award: is deserved by the restaurant Mirador, atop the Torre Latinoamericana, for dumping the fabulous mid-century moderne décor in favor of airport contempo.
I award the Premio Cantinflas to Tezka for their horrible service and absurdly translated menu: tocino del cielo = sky bacon; Manitos de cerdo = pig handies!
The Joan-Crawford-it’s-fun-to-be-a-bitch award: is merited by yours truly
See you at the Academy....
A note to my readers: I have inaugurated a new blog as a forum for my non-Mexican writings. See GOOD FOOD PLANET
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